SUNNYFAC

产品
  • 产品
搜索
详细内容

Jonathan Cohen Gives a Heartfelt, Honest, and Ultimately Hopeful Take on How He and His Label Are Handling the Crisis

360截图20200325224631523.jpg

Obviously, fashion week [in New York in February] happened, and we did our show [for the fall 2020 Jonathan Cohen collection]. We had started to hear about the virus, but it seemed so far away; maybe we started to wash our hands more often. On our way to market in Paris [Cohen does his collection sales there], it started to feel inescapable; appointments were canceled, teams were not flying in, or they were leaving. The apartment that Sarah [Leff, Cohen’s business partner] and I were stationed in, we didn’t move all day, and then we’d go to dinner, but the air was different. Places you couldn’t usually get reservations for—they were welcoming you with open arms.

I was pretty scared to get on the plane back home. You knew the business was going to change, but not what that might mean, how long it was going to take. There weren’t any cases [in the U.S.] but you knew it was coming. It started to take its emotional toll. I would go to dinner, but I’d be so anxious I’d leave. If I went to the office, then I would go back home. I started to self-quarantine at home for 10 days, hearing the news, and it got to the point I was nervous about leaving the apartment, to put out the garbage.

[At work] we’d just started shipping our remaining spring 2020 orders, but international stores started to write to say it was unknown as to when they could accept the orders. Our fall orders were coming in very slowly, on a case-by-case, store-by-store basis. Everything was up in the air. My first concern was for my business; I wasn’t thinking about my health, or how bad that could be. I’d been devoting all my life to being a fashion designer since I was little; doing the [CFDA/Vogue] Fashion Fund, that was so important to me. I’d been working with Sarah for nine years to get to this point.

When I ended my 14th day of quarantine, I decided to go home to San Diego to be with my family. I grew up there and I haven’t lived there since I was in high school. But I am so grateful to be with my family—my sister just had a baby, at the end of last week—and I know for a lot of people that’s not an option. I’m lucky. Yet it’s also scary [being here] since I still have my life in New York; Sarah is my family too. I have seen her almost every day for as long as we’ve worked together. Now we are on FaceTime, trying to define what the new normal is. We’re both learning to take things day by day and just be fine with that.

I’m not really worried about creating a new collection; we’ve put seasonal collections on pause. We all go through challenges in our lives, and it’s usually fashion that has gotten me through mine. When I started the label, my mom was being treated for cancer, and those first collections were an escape for me. This time, I can’t escape the reality of what we’re in; drawing a dress isn’t helping right now. All of my friends...we’re all thinking about accepting this moment before we can go any further. Having conversations like this have helped, trying to grasp the reality of it all. That’s more the question than how does this translate into the collection? I will get there; I just need to focus on other things before I can.

The good thing is that Sarah and I are a strong unit, and on the same page as to how we should go forward. Which is why we’re going to focus, for now, on the Studio part of the Jonathan Cohen label. Late last year we launched our first series of drops via the Studio direct-to-consumer venture. We used past season’s fabrics, upcycled them, and worked with our established pieces and shapes. It’s still important to think about the environmental challenges posed by our industry, and it felt right to launch that program. It’s important to think about one of a kind pieces, collaborative opportunities, the sense of community as we produce everything locally in small runs in off seasons, to keep NYC manufacturing going.

Currently, we don’t need to invest in new textiles and production runs; we want to dip into our existing fabrics to create new things, work with local factories, produce small capsules we can sell online and through some of our boutiques. It’s how we first started, with a collection of 12 printed dresses.

We want to take a breather before we go back to where we were. We’ve always done two collections a year, and that was challenging for some stores, who wanted pre-collections. We had started discussing splitting up our deliveries but… I am not going to design four collections a year. Two is already enough. We have to start thinking about the burnout of designers—and editors, and buyers.

Designers are in a state of shock. Maybe we said to ourselves we will be back to normal by resort [in May, June], but now everyone is thinking differently, that we will have to see how things play out, and what direction will we even go in when we do? People will want to dream again, to wear special pieces, but those pieces will be easy, unfussy. One buyer said to me things will need to have the bells and whistles but that they will need to be zip up and go. That feeling of wanting to escape...my perspective as a designer has always been very cinematic, and my job as a designer has always been to help you escape. That’s going to be more important than ever, but so will being more mindful of what day-to-day life is going to look like.


Guangzhou Sunnyfac Garment CO. Ltd.

         Alan.business@hotmail.com
Watsapp: +8613580536705
Tel: +86 0766 2894080
      +86 13580536705
Fax: +86 0766 2894080
Address: No.3 longhe Induxtrial Parks Renhe Town Baiyun District Gunagzhou, China




2010-2020 SUNNYFAC.COM
Guangzhou Sunnyfac Garment CO., LTD.


技术支持: 建站ABC | 管理登录